Showing posts with label 1920s. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1920s. Show all posts

Saturday, 19 April 2014

Let's Misbehave

Hello, hello I have a special little treat for you lovely people today, while I am busy beavering away on my SFV project I have a little filmic interlude that I am sure you'll all enjoy.

Today's post is a guest one from the ever so lovely Emma of Lets Misbehave - A Tribute to Precode Hollywood a beautiful blog which looks at, you guessed it, the Precode era of film. An era of films I absolutely adore, the melodramas, the gangsters, the glamour, the sassy sirens and their seductive eyebrows! But I'll be honest as much as I love the films I don't really know much about what Precode means and how it shaped theses early cinematic gems, but never fear Emma is here to teach us all about it. So dim the lights, grab the popcorn and settle down to learn more.

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Misbehaving on Film: 
Everything You Need to Know About Precode

While Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and James Dean films are generally seen in the light of ‘popular’ classic movies, pictures from the 1930’s or before are viewed as some kind of irrelevant and archaic art form. Strangely, most people have either heard or seen part of at least one Pre-code film. The original King Kong (1933), Bela Lugosi’s Dracula (1931) and Boris Karloff’s Frankenstein (1931) feature several iconic and easily recognisable scenes that have become both part of pop culture and the basis for many later horror movies.


But the Pre-code era is much more than monsters and gore, it represents the modernisation of American society through the burgeoning feminism ideology, organised crime (ie. Gangsters), financial depression and a left-wing political movement and a mini sexual revolution. This great combination of history, strong and determined women and the positive view of criminals brought a unique period heralded by Jean Harlow, Marlene Dietrich, James Cagney and the first words of the divine Greta Garbo.

But what is Pre-code? Contrary to its name, Pre-code, which is generally classified as between the years 1929 and 1934, is not actually before – hence pre – a code at all. In actuality, the era in Hollywood was officially governed by a code or a series of guidelines setup by the major film studios as a kind of self-censorship. Named the Motion Picture Production Code – or the Hays Code – it was created originally in 1922 and updated in 1930 to account for sound pictures. Overseen by Presbyterian elder and Postmaster General, William H. Hays, it acted to prevent more stringent and strict government regulation. Late in the silent era, several provocative and anti-religious films, such as Cecil B Demille’s orgies in Manslaughter (1922) and The Ten Commandments (1923) and The Godless Girl (1929) fuelled fundamentalist religious and virtue group’s fears that an unrestrained Hollywood was corrupting American children. More alarmingly, the incidents and rumours of debauched parties and illegal drug and alcohol consumption within the film community only added to the fears. Occurrences, such as the Roscoe ‘Fatty’ Arbuckle murder trial and the death of director William Desmond Taylor - whose sex life and drug addiction was revealed to the world - made some Americans believe Hollywood was not only immoral on films but in reality.


This code seemed to placate the religious critics who ceased their boycott of several Hollywood films as well as prevent government censorship. However, the guidelines were simply well-placed smoke and mirrors. Hays, far from being an unbiased mediator, was employed and paid by the films studios, up to a gigantic $100,000 a year. He acted as the studio’s spokesperson and by preaching American values and purity, they hoped the interested parties would ignore the sin, sex, and playfulness that was on the screen. Also, they had another ace up their sleeves; namely, by appealing the churches and the government by introducing the plot tactic of justice. Through this avenue, the main protagonist could steal, sleep-around, murder, and drink as much as they like as long as they paid for it at the end – mostly via a tragic death scene.


The code functioned to keep institutions out of Hollywood but wasn’t a substitute for enforceable legislation. So instead of cleaning up Hollywood, the MPPC operated as protection and, thus, a green light for filmmakers to include a wide range of sex, violence, drugs, organised crime and negative depictions of police and political establishments in their pictures. The list of dos and don’ts just provoked film-makers like naughty children to behave the exact opposite and with barely any actual restrictions, it was a free for all. Thus leaving film lovers and historians alike with delicious examples of blatant code breaking. Such as:

The Code: “Complete nudity is never permitted. This includes nudity in fact or in silhouette, or any lecherous or licentious notice thereof by other characters in the picture.” 
The Code Broken: Musicals were a great method for directors to include seductive nude or nearly nude scenes and dance choreographer/ director, Busby Berkley, was a common offender. He used interesting camera angles and geometric patterns to fool censors into thinking the chorus girls were more clothed than they actually were.


An obvious example is in Gold Diggers of 1933, when during a musical number, the dancers become drenched and need to change. They undress in levels behind a translucent screen that leaves little to the imagination.

The Code: “The sanctity of the institution of marriage and the home shall be upheld. Pictures shall not infer that low forms of sex relationship are the accepted or common thing.” 
The Code Broken: Actress, Norma Shearer, has more of a reputation today as the typical ‘good girl’ but in the Precode era she created roles that broke the boundaries of acceptability. Her two best films, The Divorcee (1930) – which she won the Oscar for Best Actress – and A Free Soul (1931), challenge the definition of marriage and fidelity.


The first questions the ultimate gender double-standard; whether it is appropriate for a wife to be philander if her husband can? Shearer stars as a cuckolded wife who gives her husband some of his own medicine, by cheating as well. A Free Soul represents a different take on modern relationships by showing an affair between a spoilt society woman and a gangster that involves sex with no marriage. Both films definitely challenge the Hays code definition of appropriate sexual relationships and the sanctity of marriage.

The Code: “Dances suggesting or representing sexual actions or indecent passions are forbidden.”
The Code Broken: As a director, Cecil B. DeMille, loved pushing the limitations of film and censorship. His picture, The Sign of the Cross (1932) starring Claudette Colbert and Fredric March, is filled with dozens of code breakers.


These include implicit graphic violence, paganism, blasphemous dialogue and loads of near naked woman. The most shocking scene involves an exotic dancer, played by Jozelle Joyner, who performs an extremely paganistic dance called The Dance of the Naked Moon. This includes grinding and moving up against the female Christian character, Elissa Landis, in an overtly sexual way.

The Code: “Sex perversion or any inference to it is forbidden.”
The Code Broken: Surprisingly Precode movies were filled with inferences to ‘sex perversion’, a euphemistic and discriminatory phrase for homosexual characters and behaviours, but there is a handful of intriguing examples. Filmmakers generally used the ‘dandy’ or a male effeminate character for humour or lightness without clearly identifying the person’s sexuality. However, two major films show the flattering use of lesbian conduct, namely, Queen Christina (1933) and Morocco (1930).


Both female leads, Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, project androgenic personas by the use of male suits and clothing with neither portrayed negatively. ‘Sex perversion’ is explicitly alluded to in these movies with Dietrich and Garbo both showing the earliest examples of a female kissing another female on the mouth. Strangely, even though the scenes flagrantly ignored the rules and were somewhat condemned by censors, neither the public nor critics generally had any problems with them.

For the next four years before a mandatory guideline was created, the code was the most ignored legislation since the Prohibition and inadvertently shaped an era in which sin, provocation and honestly was the order of the day.

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Thank you, Emma, for a fascinating insight into precode films! I know I will be adding all of the above to my watch list! If you enjoyed this pop over to Emma's blog to find out more, I am certain you won't be disappointed!
Wendy x

Friday, 15 June 2012

The Vintage Pattern Files

Morning!

I think it is about time I told you all about a little blog which I have been working on over the last few months...


As the title suggests this is my attempt to create an on-line link library of free vintage knitting, crochet, and sewing patterns. The idea being, it will make it easier for you and me to find the perfect vintage pattern by having them all (I can dream) listed in one place. 

It is obviously going to be an ongoing project, as there will always be new patterns somewhere on the web to be added to the collection, but hopefully, it will be a useful tool for those of you who love vintage patterns and free stuff as much as I do!

If you have any links you would like to add or suggestions on how to make it more user-friendly I would love to hear from you, I will always ensure that you are credited :)

Wendy x

Saturday, 17 December 2011

A Little more Chrismas Swapping

So what was in that ever so tantalising parcel then...

Just look at that Beautiful handmade card!!

1. An Embroidered Christmas Apron. 2. A Shabby Chic Handbag. 3. A Bag of Lavender with some gorgeous Lip Balm (smells divine). 4. A Kath Kidiston NoteBook  5. A Piece of Lacey Trim! 6. An Embroidery Kit (with a butterfly!...eek!) 7.  An Embroidered Christmas Table Cloth (see below).


 The Christmas table cloth has found a very fitting home underneath the
tree with Christmas Ted to keep it company!

I love absolutely everything! I let out a serious squeal when I realised I had now my own Christmas pinny, I had toyed with the idea of making one, but with the move, I just didn't have the time to craft. I honestly was like a child in a party dress, I pranced about the house all evening refusing to take it off.

The Gorgeous tablecloth is the perfect fit under my little Christmas tree and it looks just lovely!

I am going to fashion a fabulous 1940s collar out of the lovely lace trim and I can't wait to start on the Embroidery it will look great in my new living room!











Here's what I sent to Shirl...


1. A Deco Style Necklace.  2. The Book 'What Every Woman Should Know: Life Lessons from the 1930's'.  3. Hand crocheted Christmas tree angels.  4. A 10x8 Print of a 30s Train Poster.  5. A Shell Mosaic Picture Frame.  6. Some Shabby Chic Fabric.

I must say I enjoyed an excuse to do a bit of charity shopping and I think I was very lucky with my finds! Such as the book which is packed full of fabulous advice and images from the 30's I highly recommend getting a copy if you can!

When I realised that Shirl lived in Clacton and that she liked the 20s and 30's it gave me the perfect excuse to use my graphic design skills to recreate (ie draw over in illustrator) an old 30s train poster of her hometown.

My mum was kind enough to crochet me up some little angels for the parcel. Seriously I wish I had her skills with a crochet hook, she took no time to make these up and the crocheting is so delicate and tiny that I struggle even to see the hook!


Thank you again, Shirl, for taking the time to make up my fabulous parcel and also a big Thank You to Lakota for setting it all up!! It has been a lovely pre-Christmas treat to have something to open before the big day!


Wendy x

Friday, 3 June 2011

Sew It - A Bank Holiday Blogging Ban

I am painfully slow at this blogging lark. It takes me so long to type what I want to say that I tend to lose enthusiasm for it halfway through and give up. I always know what I want to say until the moment I actually have to say it then my mind goes blank. It doesn't help also that the minute I get online I get tend to get sucked into the time eating vortex that is the Internet and more over that evil temptress Google.

I don't really need to know the name of the very first single by The Who ('Zoot Suit' 1964 if you ever wanted to know, which I doubt) any more than I need to know why a Pirate is called a Pirate (I'll let you Google that one) or even the lyrics to 'It's Only a Paper Moon' (well that one was kind of necessary it was an ear worm and driving me crazy!). Yet I spend way too much time on these random searches, so much so I seldom achieve what I set out to when I turn my PC on. So I decide that this Bank Holiday weekend I was going to  devote my time purely to blog worthy pursuits namely sewing, meaning my PC was going to be out of bounds! So what did I spend my time on?

Well, after much prevaricating over what to do first, oh and a spot of charity and fabric shopping, I finally started and finished a very cute poncho-dress-top-beach cover up-dressing gown-Kimono-thingummy!! After spotting a fab free pattern for a Scallop waist skirt on Grosgrain. I went to the designers own blog Vivat Veritas and after having a nosey around I found a fab tutorial for a poncho top, it looked really simple to do and best of all it was quick - It's great when the pattern you suddenly become obsessed with only puts your current projects a teeny bit back!


I had seen on Etsy a while ago a beautiful flappers dressing gown made from chiffon almost the same way, so I decide this could be my own version of a dressing gown to flounce around the house in.



I managed to get 2 meters of the most lovely pink fabric from my local high street at £1 a meter. It's a medium weight polyester mix fabric (oh that almost sounds like I have a clue! It don't go crinkly when squashed up that's my way of telling!) It is a bit heavier weight than I would of liked but it was the only poly fabric which was in a pretty colour so it had to be!


The only change I made to the pattern was to make giant buttonholes in the sides rather than using elastic gathered at the waist. In truth, I did try the elastic route, but because the fabric was heavier or slightly wider than the example, it did not pull the waist in enough. Also, the elastic line rode up at the back and looked truly ridiculous! So to bring it all together neatly and to stop me look like I had been eaten by a giant pink marshmallow, I decide on holes for the belt to pass through and believe me it looks 100% better for it!




One thing that I will change a bit later on is the hem. I did a double hem to hide the raw edges but again as the fabric is a little heavy it feels a bit too chunky I will address this by sewing on some bias tape along the edge instead at some point - that's going to be a lot of bias tape!
 
I definitely want to make this again, If I can find a lighter weight fabric on the weekend I will make another one as I think It would be perfect for floating around the Isle of Wight Festival which I'm off to next week Oh, and another great thing about this pattern is, if you get bored with it, you still have a good sized piece of fabric to re-fashion, well that is if you don't stick two ruddy great Buttonholes in it like me!
Wendy x

Thursday, 10 March 2011

1930's Bow Cardigan Pattern an SOS!!

Image from Porcelina's World
Over the last few weeks I have been working on creating my own knitting pattern for the Miss Lemon Cardigan (Scary as never attempted such a feat before).

The obsession with this cardigan began for me when Miss P over at Porcelina's World posted a screen shot from Poirot of Miss lemon in this little number.


When re-watching La Vie En Rose a few weeks ago I was brought face to face with this wonderful woolly number again and determined to try my hand at creating my own pattern for it which I could share!

The Butterfly Balcony - Miss Lemons Bow Jumper
All the wool is ordered and the pattern is drafted (cobbled together from a few different 30's patterns) I am just awaiting the wools arrival and I will be ready to start.

There is one small problem, though...

I am a bit of a fussy one when it comes to making my own versions, they really have to be a near as possible to the original otherwise I'm not happy! (combine this with my knitting speed, slooooow it will take a while for me to finish a project!)

The images I have are really dark and I can't quite tell what pattern the main body is knitted in. It looks to me like a lacey rib pattern, but I just can't tell?!?

I have decided on a plain stocking stitch until I can find a better image to go by.

So if anyone out there has any clearer images or can help me out I would really love to know!??

Wendy x

Wednesday, 9 March 2011

Things To Make & Do - Spring Knitting Inspiration

If all the hours in the day were free for purely crafting, then I would spend my time on knitting up all of these lovely vintage woollies for Spring...

 
Pretty Summer Woolly (1930's)
I am in love with this 1930's Cardigan would be perfect for spring, just love the mix of blue and white


The Charm of Blue and Grey 1933
'This jumper is an irresistible interpretation of the vogue for angora - and why attempt to resist the charm, anyhow, when it can gladden your Spring wardrobe at cost price, thanks to STITCHCRAFT!'
Need I say more I just love the naval quality to this Jumper it would work a treat with a pair of Sailor Pants!


Charm For The Afternoon (1930's)
This looks like it would be a quick-ish knit to have ready in time for spring!

Tatiana Top (1940s)
"This vintage knitting pattern from the 1940s features a striking top, knit sideways in the feather and fan, or "old shale" pattern. The added peplum may be replaced with a band of simple k1, p1 rib for a totally updated look"

Shoulder Warmth (1940s)
"The French have two words for it - Courant d'air - that chill little breeze in a room which makes you wish for a shoulder woolliness such as this blue bolero"


Lacey Stripes and Leg-o-Mutton Sleeves 1933
"This is a jumper that can see you smartly through a variety of occasions, both morning and informal afternoon."


With a Fashionable 'Slit' Neckline (1930's)


Mimi (1940s)
"This vintage knitting pattern for the "Mimi" short sleeved top was first published in the early 1940s. It features lace panels running up the sides and center front, plus delicate detailing at the neckline."

For more FREE vintage knitting & sewing patterns head on over to my other blog

Wendy x

Monday, 17 January 2011

Gifts Galore!!!

Well as I have left it so long to post about my Birthday presents, I thought I would post all the lovely gifts that I received for my birthday and Christmas together. Amongst the socks, smellies and a ton of chocolate there were lots of wonderful vintage inspired DVD's from my nearest and dearest.



From the boyfriend I received the complete box set of Foyles War, how lucky am I !? I missed most of the episodes when they were on TV, so I am really looking forward to going through each episode and droooooling over the clothes and sets, as well as the wonderful storylines of course!!


 From my parents I got The Mrs Bradley Mystery's a BBC series from the late 90s which I can honestly say I don't recall at all! It stars the marvellous Diana Rigg (my favourite Avenger ever!!) as the irrepressible Adella Bradley and Promises to be filled with 1920s opulent murder and mystery!!


The next is Stephen Poliakoffs Glorious 39. which is described as 'A tense psychological thriller set against the idyllic British countryside during the glorious summer of 1939, just before the outbreak of the Second World War'


This is another one that I really don't know much about, I must have been asleep when it was released in the cinema, as it's not that old! The reviews on amazon seem to be mainly in the, loved or hated it category. It contains a 'stellar ensemble' of some of the Leading British actors so I am sure even if the plot is not great, it will be well acted.

Lastly but possibly the one I am most looking forward to watching is The Open Road by Claude Friese-Green, filmed in 1924 it shows Britain from Lands end to John o'groats, filmed for the first time in Biocolour (a technique developed by Claude's Father). The DVD contains a compilation of highlights from the journey, which has been restored by the BFI National Archive. From the little bits I have seen on TV and youtube, it looks stunning, a wonderful piece of British history captured in colour.

Also, I was a bit naughty and on the run up to Christmas, I did treat myself to two books I have wanted for a little while now...

The first is 'Style Me Vintage' by Belinda Hay. I was first alerted to this book by Jenny over at Life and Times of a Vintage Obsessive, I am really eager to give some of the styles ago as my hair, tends to fall into the seriously neglected category! I am hoping that this year I will be able to have the perfect vintage coiffure!!


The Other book is 'The 1940s Look' by Mike Brown. I had been eyeing this one up on Amazon 
for over a year and finally to the plunge to buy it, and I am glad that I did, though I have only had a quick look through, it seems packed with, snippets from magazines from the 40s, which will make for interesting reading!

I am sure all these will keep me busy for an absolute age!!

Wendy x

Wednesday, 6 October 2010

Take a Time Machine to the Twenties

I was completely blown away when I saw this film clip on YouTube and just had to share. It is a test reel taken in 1922 and filmed in Kodachrome. It is just beautiful to watch and gives us a rare colour glimpse in to the past.


The first actress on the reel is Hope Hampton who is coquettishly modelling costumes from the silent film The Light in the Dark (1922)also known as The Light of Faith which contained the first commercial use of Two-Color Kodachrome. You can watch or download it for free from here!

Hope Hampton
Next up is Mary Eaton, she was a leading was stage actress, singer, and dancer in the 1910's and 1920's who enjoyed success in the stage production of the Ziegfeld Follies.

Mary Eaton (Photo from Here)
The Last Actress on the reel is Mae Murray who appears ethereal in a wonderful silk dressing gown.
Murray was a multi-talented woman she was actress, dancer, film producer, and screenwriter. Murray rose to fame during the silent film era and was known as The Girl with the Bee-Stung Lips and also The Gardenia of the Screen.

Mae Murry (Photo from Here)
Until next time!
Wendy x