Wartime Farm Goes to India

Today is my little brothers birthday, he's currently on an epic three week long backpacking trip around India. As with his holiday last year to China he has been sending me daily Whatsapp updates and pictures of his journey so that I can assure myself and my internet free parents that he is safe and sound and clearly having a wonderful time!

Today his travels took him to Uttar Pradesh where he sent me pictures of his birthday trip to the Taj Mahal and imagine my surprise when I saw the below!

It's only the flipping Wartime Farm Pullover outside the Taj Mahal!! This is getting to be one well travelled knitted!

Wendy x

Sew For Victory 2.0 - Hollywood No.1977

Hello! 

Well, here it is my Sew For Victory 2.0 entry, in all its purple and black sequinned glory!

I am so pleased with this dress (someone tell my face) as it fits perfectly, and it's probably the most comfortable thing I have made to date. It has, though been a real labour of love and at points, I did think I was never going to finish it, I mean who makes the decision to hand top stitch everything when the clock is ticking, oh, and then add a sequin trim last minute?! Well, I do, and apart from the self-induced stress I created, I am so, so glad I did, as it's the most well-made dress I've ever attempted!

I was not all plain sailing, however; after taking my photos in the lovely churchyard last week I realised that there was an issue with the dress which I hadn't noticed before, or perhaps I'd just chosen to ignore while fitting.

The problem was in the bust area, (see the above picture) there is just a bit too much drapey fabric, which makes things in that area look a tad...saggy! It's not terrible, but once I noticed it blown up all big and droopy on my PC screen, I couldn't, not see it, and it was really bugging me. Thankfully by some miracle, lovely Rochelle had decided extended the deadline by a few extra days, so I was able to adjust the four front pleats a smidgen, taking them up about an inch and tapering them out a little to remove a little more of the excess fabric and banish the sagginess. Hurrah!

Something I learnt: cutting crepe on the grain is difficult. Very difficult. At times it felt like the fabric was a living breathing (constantly moving) entity, I did my best and though I am sure there are sections where the grain is not running true, it's not glaringly obvious. Sewing it was actually really easy, the fabric didn't fray too badly, so I was able to readjust (and by that I mean: Unpick my seams) with very little damage to the fabric, which was nice! 

The sheerness of the fabric meant that I had to line the whole dress, to avoid my unmentionables being mentioned. I chose to do this by essentially by making two dresses from the crepe which sit inside each other wrong sides facing, I figured it would be better to do this to help maintain the lovely drape that the crepe has, rather than adding a nylon type lining which would be stiffer and not so fluid.

Lining has also has meant that I was able to add some buttons loops to close the back opening rather than the zip the pattern called for, I'd feared the zip might give me puckering issues due to the delicate nature of my fabric so this option was much simpler.

I did attempt some Sewing Bee inspired rouleau loops but without a loop turner it was a lost cause, instead, I settled for some handmade bias strips which worked out really well! Lining has also meant that I could get away without finishing the raw edges of the seams which I feared it would add bulk in areas that it would be visible. To match the black buttons I had chosen to run down the back, I decided to add some sequin trim which I think works really well, and as 40s dresses seldom shied away from some sparkly embellishment I thought it would add an extra touch.

I am not sure if I have said it before, but I LOVE peplums!

I mean, I really love them! I always thought that adding ruffles at the waist would make me feel fatter but it actually helps make your waist look smaller, hides the cake eaters tummy and adds more curves, and we all know curves are good!  I especially love the peplum on this dress as it can be removed and added to any outfit! How cool is that!! I want peplums on everything from now on!



So that was and is my SFV 2.0 effort! I am so pleased I got to take part again and truly think my stitching skills have improved since last years dress, I actually can't wait to do it all again!

If you liked my dress then, there are so, so many stunning garments (no exaggeration) over on the Flikr group that I urge you to check it out, gosh they are a talented bunch!

Wendy x

Sew For Victory 2.0 - Ding! Ding! All Change!

So today is the deadline for Sew For Victory 2.0. I've not long got back from photographing my finished dress, which I still can't believe I have actually finished, and while I work on editing and cropping my images I thought it would be a good idea to give you update before revealing the finished dress a little later in the week, (a sneak peak will be on Flickr soon) as things have changed quite a bit since my last post!

 So in my last SFV 2014 post, I was just about to make my first muslin of Advance 4599 and go and buy my fabric. I toddled off to Walthamstow Market in search of something lovely and after a hearty lunch of pie and mash I settled on some gorgeous purple crepe. Initially did struggle to find anything I really liked, the problem with having so much choice is it makes it much harder to choose just one fabric, but as soon as my eyes and hands located this gorgeous purple chiffon crepe (side note: I learnt today that 'crepe de chine' is the french for crepe from China, I had no idea I thought it had something to do with shine, doh!) I was sold. It is a tad sheer but at a whopping £1.50 a meter I really could not complain!

After securing my fabric it was time to get cracking on the resizing. I set to slashing and spreading each pattern piece, adding the required inches and with the help of an old duvet cover I made myself a toile/muslin of my altered pattern. Now prepare yourself, for she is an ugly blighter!

So this is my muslin. I am aware that a muslin will never look that good, but the sight of her in all her wonkiness is quite off putting, especially as my alterations seem to have made it way to big and pretty much shapeless. Now either the pattern is actually for a slightly larger size than it states (I am aware there is always a tad of ease), or my personal measurements are way off, or, the most likely scenario, my resizing has gone awry, in a big way!

Also, I realised while fitting this muslin, that my body shape really does not suit a dropped waist, and it certainly does not suit a dropped waist accentuated by a peplum! I would show you pictures of me wearing this muslin but sadly or thankfully, there was no one around to help snap a picture.

So it will come as no surprise, that after spending all of the bank holiday weekend, fighting with this pattern I decided, with just under a week to go, that I had to go back to the drawing board or should that be cutting mat, and move on to my backup pattern, Hollywood 1977.

This pattern also needed resizing but thankfully it was only by 2 inches front and back, and the pattern is much simpler to work these increases on. I made a quick muslin of the top check my measurements were correct and this time they worked out much better!

This last week and a bit has seen me working my butt off to get my new dress finished. It has involved a lot of hand sewing, as I wanted, despite the time constraints, to do the beautiful fabric justice by not rushing to top stitch everything on my machine, but to treat it a little more delicately by hand stitching wherever I could.

 Which is something I have actually found surprisingly enjoyable, especially when accompanied by some relaxing Sinatra!

Wendy x

Sew For Victory 2.0 - My Plans

Well, I guess I should tell you all about my Sew For Victory 2.0 Plans.

I must confess this year I felt a little uninspired as what I should make, normally I have a vague inkling as to where I want to go with any of the challenges before I commit, though my plan often changes, but this time I was stumped. After seeing my brothers holiday snaps from China, I hit upon the idea of a 1940s Oriental style dress and when I caught sight of the Maria Dress by Trashy Diva it was love at first sight, and it instantly became my inspiration for this years SFV project!

Image Source: Pinup Girl Clothing Maria Dress

Isn't it wonderful! It's made from black rayon crepe fabric (and I've just spotted they also do a yellow one which is just as adorable) it has cap sleeves, a waist accentuating dirndl skirt, and the thing that captures me the most is the mandarin collar and oriental chrysanthemum embroidery on each side of the chest, which makes this dress so striking. 

Image Source: Pinup Girl Clothing Maria Dress

My dress is going to be very much inspired by rather than a copy, I am going to change the skirt to a more slimline one, and add my favorite 1940s design feature the peplum, to achieve this I am hoping to use Advance 4599 from my pattern collection, which I believe, though there is no exact date given, dates from about 1947 and I think captures the oriental style I am looking for perfectly.

I am going to attempt view 1 with a single peplum

I say I am hoping to as the eagle-eyed will have already noticed that the pattern is for a 30inch bust, and well mine is a good ten inches away from that measurement! So it will need some intensive resizing if I have any hope of making it work. My pattern is all traced, thanks to a few lunchtime crafting session and tonight after I hit publish on this post, I will attempt to alter it to fit my ample dimensions!

Model buses make quite good pattern weights!

All being well, I will head out tomorrow to buy my fabric, ideally the teenage goth in me is drawn to black crepe, which if I have time I will embroider on, but I've decided that I am going to go out with an open mind and see what I can turn up, so watch this space! I should say that I do have another pattern which if it all goes haywire I can fall back on (a pattern that only needs a few inches added, and is made up of only four pieces, plus a peplum so will be much simpler, I think) but I am optimistic, I have three whole days to work on it so, as usual it's fingers crossed!

Wendy x

Wartime Farm Goes to the Wall

My little brother is currently in China with one of his friends for a lovely few weeks seeing the sights as they travel from Shanghai to Beijing then to Xi'an and finally onto Hong Kong.

As you can see, he has been sending me lots of beautiful pictures via WhatsApp as he travels around, which has been really lovely and has even given me some great ideas for my Sew For Victory project! It's also made me just a little jealous, though until I get over my flying phobia I will stay a lovely 'one-day' dream. My favourite photos so far have to be the ones from his trip to the Great Wall.

I mean how flipping amazing does this look, puts my wet week walking Hadrian's wall to shame, that's for sure! But the most surprising thing was the next picture he sent, to be honest, it made me a little teary.

 It's not the greatest photo I grant you (it was taken on his old school Polaroid) but it made my year when I saw it! The Wartime Farm Pullover has made it to the Great Wall of China and that makes me so very proud, partly because I know it must mean that he actually really likes it!

Wendy x

Sew for Victory - A Little Giveaway

Hello dear readers, as I am a bit behind on my planned blogging of late (sometimes life just gets in the way) I thought I would just quickly pop in and treat you all to a little impromptu giveaway to fill the gap!

As I was sorting through my sewing patterns on the weekend, I realised that I have two copies of my Sew for Victory pattern (well three if you count the very delicate and torn original). One copied directly from the original pattern and one I made my own personal adjustments to. Which means that rather than hoard another copy I will never use again, I thought I should give it away!

Blackmore 5755

• Hand copied onto medium weight brown paper
• Seam allowances of 1.5cm added
• Bust approx 38" 
• Waist approx 30/32"
• Ideal for a slightly stretch fabric, such as jersey or velvet.

I have added a few annotations to the pattern pieces where necessary, which hopefully should help anyone a little dubious about sewing something with minimal instructions. It is honestly a very simple pattern to make up, and any questions, well you know who to ask!

So what do you have to do to enter? 

1. Be a follower via one of the feed readers in the sidebar.

2. Leave me a comment below - It doesn't need to be anything fancy, simply a 'count me in' or 'Hello' will do!

3. Do the above before 12pm (UK BST) on Monday 29th April 2013

I will draw a winner using one of those random generators and post the winner's name here and if possible contact them directly. If I am not contacted by the winner before the 6th May 2013 I will draw a new winner.

I hope you like it, please don't be shy and have a go, I am more than happy to post worldwide so no one needs to be left out :)

Wendy x

Sew For Victory - The Reveal!

Well, it's finally time to show you the finished Sew For Victory Blackmore 5755 dress, which I have been busily working on to finish in time for today's deadline.  I must say that Sewing for Victory has been a lot of fun, I have learnt so much, simply by slowing down my sewing and paying attention to the little details I feel I have created something that's made to last and that I will enjoy wearing for years to come.  Also seeing the wonderful creations from the other participants has been endlessly inspirational and motivational, just see for yourselves on the Flikr group.

 I don't think it would be an exaggeration to say that I totally love this dress! Being able to put some serious time into getting the fit and fabric just right, and then not rushing myself just to get it finished (ok well the belt was last minute, but that's just a little thing), was a revelation to me,  I don't honestly think I have ever spent so much time on one single garment before, (not counting the abandoned to UFO status items, of which there are many!) so for the first time I can say that there is no slapdash stitching here! 

 I changed a few things in the bodice section from the muslin version (see it here) the button band I folded over about 1/2 an inch over the neckline (rather than it finishing at the V)  and rather than sewing the band down with a row of stitches I used four mother of pearl buttons to hold it in place. I also added a cream/white lace frill around the neck, I was rather hesitant about adding this feature, but I am so glad I did as I really like the contrast!

It'ss also taught me new methods of contortion, as getting into it is a breeze getting out is a little more...lets say ingenious, due to the way the sleeves taper in slightly at the cuff making them stick to your arm as you try to get free, something I could have remedied by adding a smidgen more width to the sleeves, but its a small problem, which must be quite hilarious to watch so I am happy to overlook it!

To celebrate my finishing on time, I though a trip out, to get some well-lit photographs of me in my new dress, so we trundled off on Easter Sunday to Wimpole Hall.

This was not my smartest move, the house and grounds were breathtaking, but unfortunately so was the weather. Being Easter, the grounds were packed with tourist, and children running about rummaging in the bushes on Easter egg hunts (I'm too old for that lark...apparently), all of the above were wrapped up toasty and warm in their welly boots, hats scarves, gloves and not forgetting their super thick coats.

I, on the other hand, much to the amusement of the said tourists, had removed my scarf coat and gloves and was parading about the gardens in just my dress, desperately trying to think warm thoughts clutching my 1930s copy of Julius Caesar, in an attempt to copy the poise and snooty elegance of the lady on the pattern envelope.

I would like to say, I managed to keep my composure, that I acted like a pro, and that you can't tell how cold I am feeling from my posture or my face, but we all know I would be lying :)

Even though it was cold, and my pasty skin was turning purple, it was a bit of a laugh. I can at least say that I have done my national duty in making a few tourists holidays complete by letting them witness first hand, the behaviour of a typically eccentric English woman!.

So as I wander off into the gardens in search of my gloves, scarf, coat, and a flask of whiskey, all that's left to say is a huge THANK YOU to Rochelle and of course Lucille, for taking the time to organise such a wonderful sew along, it has been a blast!

Wendy x

Things to Make & Do - Sew For Victory - Muslin

I thought I'd take a little tea break from my 'Sunday sewing session' (I do love alliteration!) to give you all a little update on my 'Sew For Victory' progress!

So the last time I posted about it, I mentioned my dilemma between my two chosen patterns: The Maudella short sleeved blouse and the Blackmore gathered bodice dress. I love them both but eventually chose...

Blackmore No. 5755

I actually attempted to make muslin's up for both patterns, but the real deciding factor was the sheer simplicity of the dress, over the lack of instructions available on the blouse. Phrases like 'make an attach cuffs' are not really that helpful, especially when you have no given pattern piece, even when you have a vague notion of what you are doing!

So I said yes to the dress, which if I am honest almost just as unhelpfully states the sizing as 'medium' with no additional measurements given. I can't say I've ever been classified as a 'medium' in my life, so I copied the complete pattern onto brown paper added on the required 1.5cm seam allowance. Knowing from experience that I have wider arms than your average 40s lass, I also added an extra 4cm to the cuff ends before set to making up my muslin, with the hopes that 'medium' would not be too cruel a size on my generally 'large' frame.

Work in progress
Need to sort out the way the gather strip finishes at the neckline as it looks untidy

I was pleasantly surprised. It was not ridiculously tight, and as I had decided to use the stretchy velvet fabric, which was intended for the final dress, it was much more forgiving than I could have hoped. I eventually decided against the stretch fabric, purely because it was so shiny and I wanted to make a more period-accurate dress. So instead I've opted for a darker, nonstretchy velvet, its still black but much richer in colour, a triple velvet from Minerva Crafts

One way Stretch Velvet on the Left & Triple Velvet (not the loo roll) on the right.

A first for me has been using a cutting mat and rotary cutter to cut out my patterns and fabric. Honestly its the best way, I am a total convert. No more kneeling on the floor hacking at my fabric, and the carpet, for me!

They were a Christmas gift from my prolific quilt maker Mum, who has been an advocate of the rotary cutter for as long as I can remember. I don't know why it has taken me so long to see the light (well I do* if you're squeamish don't follow that pesky asterisk) as its made cutting out the fidgety velvet a breeze and the edges are so neat and easy to line up. It makes you feel like a pro - At last!

This dress has a lot of gathering, up the centre of the bodice, on the shoulders and both of the sleeves all need to be gathered. I decided to try a technique (I read about it somewhere but I can't remember...whoops!) where you use a piece of string or yarn and zig zag over it and then pull the yarn to create the gathers, it works like a charm especially on the velvet as it can be prone to gripping the running stitch when it's done the traditional way!

So far I have finished the bodice, attached the sleeves and hemmed the neckline, all that's left to do is sew the skirt, attach it, pop in the zip, then hem the lot. I can't believe I might actually be on track to finishing this before the deadline! 

Have a wonderful Sunday, oh and a Happy St Patricks Day!

Wendy x

*Last warning this is not for the squeamish!*

I know exactly why I have avoided it. My Mum, as I said above, an avid crafter and with 20+ years experience using a rotary cutter, a few years back ended up in A&E after she'd managed to cut the top of her index finger off, whilst cutting out blocks for her next quilt...shudder. My brother found the shrivelled top bit later that evening on her cutting mat...murgugaah...gruesome!  So, yes I know exactly why I have given rotary cutters a wide birth until now, and as I am the clumsy one in the family this story has been looping through my mind whilst I am caaaaaarefully cutting away! I still think the benefits still outweigh the possible finger loss. Just!

Things To Make & Do - Sew For Victory - Decisions

As you may well have seen from the link in my sidebar, a couple of weeks ago I signed up to Rochelle's very exciting 1940s Sew-along! The challenge is to make a garment from either an original, repro or a 40s inspired pattern and to have it all finished and photo ready by the end of March, which should be plenty of time, even for the likes of me :)

Hop on over to Lucky Lucille to join in!

If you want to join in then head on over to the lovely Rochelle's blog Lucky Lucille where you will find all the info and lots of 40s inspiration! If you do you will be in great company as Miss Katie and Tasha to name just a few, have both shared what they plan to make and both projects are very exciting! 

I'll be honest the reason I haven't published this post this sooner is because I have been having great trouble choosing which pattern to use. You see I have a bit of a problem...I am a big old greedy pattern hoarder.

Due to my inability to resist an eBay bargain, and my love of the recent trend for reproductions patterns (Do you want original vintage patterns in more than one size, namely my size? Yes please!) I currently have a storage crate filled with vintage patterns and I'll be honest there is no guarantee that it won't be two crates by the end of the year!

That's a heck of a lot of patterns!

All this means I am in the wonderful yet overwhelming position of having far too many options to choose from.  Here's a little peek at just some of my favorites...

Dress Patterns

Coat & Suit Patterns

Blouse Patterns

and even hat patterns

After much deliberation, I have managed to narrow it down to two patterns. Both are in or near my actual size, which will hopefully mean minimal fitting issues and both patterns are a bit more practical than my whimsical sewing tastes would usually go for - I do seem to be quietly creating a wardrobe full of cocktail dresses and with nowhere to wear them!

Maudella Pattern No. 3319- A Puff Sleeve Blouse 

I think this would be just perfect for the upcoming spring and practical enough for wearing at work. I have made a few blouses before from a wartime Economy Pattern but I am in need of many more. I would ideally like a simple white one or a dark blue one that I can embroider flowers on. Unfortunately, I have neither type of fabric in my stash and as I am still battling to reduce it (more space for patterns...naturally) I'll have look for suitable alternatives I am positive there will be something lurking in there that will do the job!

Blackmore Pattern No. 5755 - A Tea Dress With A Ruched Bodice 

I just love this pattern and I have been wanting to make it up for ages, I even think I have the perfect fabric for it in my stash, some lovely black stretch velvet (same fabric I used for my Turban) and I am hoping that by working with the stretch in the fabric I can perhaps leave out one of the two zips the pattern calls for, to make it a smoother finish and because I am a little dubious as to how good my velvet sewing skills are.

I'm still none the wiser as to which I will go with, I am going to set aside some time this evening for pattern copying and perhaps even some fabric cutting, so hopefully by then I will have made my mind up. Fingers crossed :) 

Wendy x